The 4" Dust Collector system: filter, separator, and chip bag in it's original position on the floor.   On the right is the motor/impeller, 4 port plenum, and upward hoses (downward hoses not shown).  

The ceiling where I want everything to end up.   The 2" drop down will be moved to the right, past the right hand 2" blast gate (other side of Genie).   The 1x4 holding up the hoses and electric cords will be gone.   Note the space taken up by just the hoses.  

The ceiling after I removed the old 4" hangers, this is where the DC and hoses will end up.   I also moved the 2" drop over.   This is before I replaced the 2" blast gates with slider valves and plenum.

Primary parts of the Jet DC-1100 taken apart on the workbench.   You can see the wooden donut in the separator top (on the left) used to hold the Wynn Filter, and the Wynn C1425 Filter itself on the right end of the bench.   BTW I am still ecstatic over the Wynn Environmantal C1425 filter,   Here is a Link to the Wynn Filter Installation Page and Wynn Environmental's Site.

The separator upside down, you can see the bottom of the cone I built and the tinman's hat on the far side.   This thing is clunky looking but it works great.   Link to Jet DC-1100 Seperator Improvement Page.  

Here I'm marking holes for the motor/impeller install on the ceiling base I made for the system.   The pieces of the base are all glued, with biscuits at all joints except the overlap in the back of the pic.   I'll bolt the base to the ceiling then install the impeller/motor and separator on the ceiling.   Note: the workbench tee tracks are 12" apart, so you can tell how large this thing is.

Closer look at the base.   The 2x4 part holds the motor/impeller (and spans two ceiling joists), the 1x4 part is for the chip handling part (separator, filter, and chip bag).   BTW the chip bag will mostly be supported by a shelf, built under it.

The base with motor/impeller, separator and filter mounted on the ceiling.   Notice, I rotated the 3 separator support legs, vertically, 180° (upside down) just like I did the motor/impeller.   Turns out the length was correct so the Wynn filter would easily fit.  

Notice the charging station, I've since made a larger charging stationA that bolts to the ceiling.  

The motor/impeller should be moved to the right so the 5" hose from the motor/impeller to the separator has a little smoother curve (not an 'S' curve), but I wanted the anchor bolts to go into a joist.   My only concern about this is the sharper turn will cost some wind velocity going into the separator.   Another thought, move the motor/impeller to the right and replace the flex hose with 5" metal pipe and a 5" ell.   Also moving the motor/impeller to the right will give me a little more clearance if I replace the filter with a larger diamter.   As long as Wynn Environmental is in business, I should be set with this size.  

Here is the system using the old 4 port plenum.   You can see the little plywood shelf I made to hold the chip bag.   Raising the chip collecion bag makes it a little easier to change.

The old 4 port plenum is held on by the vacuum.  

I cut out a 1/2" plywood shelf to hold the chip bag.  

Braces under the chip chip bag shelf.  

This is where the new plenum and valves will go, replacing the current 4 port plenum.  

I needed to cut up a lot of plywood, with really straight, clean edges, something which I'm not really set up to do a lot of.   So I came up with the Plywood Ripper.   Using this thing is like using a table saw.
Note the plywood pieces of of the plenum and valves on the workbench along with the Plywood Ripper setup.   This pic was made before I got the Bosch vacuum adapter, here I'm using a 4" free hose as an interim.

Marking new plenum bottom piece for holes to valves and motor/impeller riser.   I cut all the round holes using a hole saw on the drillpress.

Stacks of valve parts sawed on the Plywood Ripper or table saw.   Note the nice straight edges, good for gluing air tight joints.  
Note the updraft valve diagram.  
Also please take a look at my 6" updraft valve.  

3/8" valve pivot rods with a 1/8" keeper screw hole drilled in one end.   The keeper hole will be used twice, the first time with a short peg to hold the rod's orientation while routing a slot for the flapper, then in the final assembly, with a wallscrew (keeper), to hold the valve control bar in place.   The center line of this hole must be 45° from the slot in the bar.
When I built the 6" updraft valve I came up with a better way to attach the flapper to the pivot rod, please take a look.  

Two pieces of 3/8" plywood to hold the bar while routing.  

Close up of the short peg, I keep it against the router lift and fence, while routing, in order to route a straight slot for the flapper and to keep the 45° angle of the hole.  

The slot starts about 1-1/2" from this end and goes to 1/4" from the opposite end.   You can see the line, on the far end of the pivot rod, which is the center line of the flapper.

Flapper being glued into the slot on the pivot rod, you can see the peg hole is about 45° from the flapper.  

Hole sawing 4" holes in valve top.   When you use a large hole saw you have to clamp the piece very securely.

Note the tee nuts and push bar.  

Stack of valve tops with 4" holes sawed.   Hole saws leave rough holes so this took some sanding to get them looking like this.

A bottom (with a 4-1/8" hole), on left and a top (with a 4" hole), on right, the top hole is offset slightly to allow for the pivot rod.  
The 4" nipple on the left is actually a splice, sawed in half, the base of the nipple is 4-1/8".

Valve box being glued up, top and sides, the bottom (on top in pic) is just there as a spacer now.   You can see a mini ClampIt to keep things square.

4" nipple being glued into a bottom, you can just see the Gorilla Glue in the crack between the nipple and the plywood.   To apply this Gorilla Glue, I pull the nipple up so its just barely in the hole and put a circle of glue on the nipple near the wood, then push the nipple down into the wood, spreading the glue as it goes.   The Gorilla Glue will expand to fill any voids making this joint air tight.   I want the bottom of the nipple to be flush with the top of the wood (underside in pic).   I discovered Gorilla Glue when building the old 4 port plenum, now I use it on every thing requiring airtight joints.   It foams up as it cures and seals the joint.   The valve bottoms are sitting on wax paper so the Gorilla Glue doesn't stick to the workbench, thats why the pic is so bright.

The Gorilla Glue is starting to foam.  

Bottom being glued into valve box after the 4" nipple is Gorilla Glued, you can see the foam at the base of the nipples.  

Valve boxes being painted.   You'll note the top of the nipple is flush with the inside of the bottom so the valve will clear and there is minimum turbulence.

Flappers being painted.  

Backs being glued on valve boxes.  

Back glued on and valve gasket/seat in place.   The bare slot on the right side is for the pivot bar, also note the blind hole at the back end for the pivot bar.   The pivot bar slot is also machined out 1/32" so the flapper will sit flat on the felt gasket.
NOTE: When you drill the blind hole for the pivot rod place the 25/64" drill bit up against both sides of the box.  

Valve box on top of plenum with valve flapper closed.   A slot is machined 1/32" for the pivot bar so the flapper will lie flat on the 1/16" gasket.   The distance from the surface of the flapper to the top of the pivot bar is 3/32", see valve detail at the bottom of diagram, the gasket is 1/16" so the slot is 1/32" deep.  

Valve box on top of plenum with flapper open.   The valve box is built to pretty tight tolerances since I don't want the cross sectional area to be much larger than the 4" hose feeding it.   You can see here the open valve flapper reduces the CA (Cross Sectional Area) to about 21.56in².   The wind flowing, top to bottom in the pic, will help hold the valve open.

Valve control bars, here I'm letting the drop of glue holding the nut set.   You can see the imbedded nut, the 3/8" pivot bar hole, and the toggle string hole at the top.   The pivot hole is 4" from the center of the weight and 2" from the pivot string hole.   For the weights (Nuts) I bored a blind hole the diameter of the flats on the nut, then "notched" out for each of the six points, so the nut is "press fit" into the control bar, thats why it doesn't take much glue to hold them.

Valve control bar in closed position.   I got the angle a little off the keeper hole in the pivot rod, I'll redrill it to 45°.

Valve control bar in open position.   The nut weights 1.8 oz. the flapper weighs 1.4oz., the vacuum will help hold the flapper closed, and wind will help hold it open, along with the weight of the nut, but it should be about 45°.   The control bar is always at a 45° angle to the flapper (45° open and 315&qdeg;closed).   The valve flapper and control bar (static body) rotate 90° from open to closed.   The 45° angle means there will be about 1.59oz. of horizontal pressure on the flapper holding it open and closed (the vacuum also helps hold it closed).

Front clamped ready to drill the screw holes.   I used 1" flat head #8 hex screws (countersunk) to hold the front of the valve box on and the front of the plenum.
NOTE: when you position the front before drilling screw holes, make sure the pivot rod is against the two inside walls of the box.  

Looking up through the open valve, you can see the flapper on the left side, well clear of the wind and dust chips.   The wind flow, pushing slightly against the top (now horizontal) will also help hold the valve open.  

A look at the felt gasket under the front cover.   This is 1/16" thick sticky back felt, I got it at Hobby Lobby, all the gaskets are made from the same stuff.

This peg will be used to hold the toggle string.   1/4" dowel with notch, 3/8" from end, chamfered with a pencil sharpener.   The chamfer helps penetrate the string's loop inside the control bar.