The new Jet 17" floor model drill press.  

It's base where I need to support it.   Thats a 12" ruler.

Parts for the base.   This is going to have more overlap than my normal caster base, since it'll have storage above it.   Flat caster bases need to overlap the actual equipment they support so it doesn't turn over when you pull or push it from the side.   Due to the placement of the mounting holes in the drill press base and the overlap requirement, I had to use 2x6s on the sides of the base.

I'm mitering 2x6s to 2x4s so the pieces look different than normal miters.  

This is what it will look like when its glued.  

Closer look at a 2x6 to 2x4 miter joint.  

I usually use biscuits for these large joints but I can't get to every place to cut the slots, so I'll have to use dowels.   I made this drill guide to drill the dowel holes.

Here is the drill guide showing about where it will be clamped when I drill the dowel holes.   Remember, you have to turn the drilling guide so it's same face is toward the marked side of the frame, this is your reference side.   Its just like when you cut biscuit slots, you mark one side of the piece to be joined (like a top) then cut all your slots using the marked side (up) as a reference, so the slots are all the same distance down the face of the joint.   This guarantees the top and bottom of the joint will be flush when the loose tenons are installed.

After drilling one of the dowel holes.  

A dowel hole and a biscuit slot in one of the 2x4s.   I drilled these holes 1-5/8" deep in both pieces to be joined then used a 3" long dowel.

The matching dowel hole and biscuit slot in a 2x6.  

Half inch oak dowels.  

Here it is in the clamps.   I used ClampIts at each corner to help make sure its square.

Glued up.  

One of the 2x4 to 2x6 "miter" joints.   I like a miter joint for a glued frame member, it provides more gluing surface and the stress on the joint is more evenly distributed across the longer joint.

Painted with casters.   I'm using the 300# double locking casters from Woodcraft.

Drill press sitting on it's caster base.   Note the carriage bolts on top, will be used to bolt the DP to the caster base.

Entire drill press on it's caster base.   Notice that the caster frame extends a little in front of the drill press's base, it is the same length as the table, above.   This gives me a little more room in the lift off cabinet, which extends from the drill press pole to the front edge of the caster base.

Drill press bolted to caster base.   Theres a full 2" clearance on sides and back, the front has 4", extra room for storage cabinet.

Verticals and braces cut out, top 1x6 ready to cut.  

Edge joining the top, biscuits in slots and glue applied, ready to join.  

Close up of glue on biscuits, the flat surface has glue applied but spread out, and doesn't show as clearly.  

Top in glue clamps.  

Corner verticals and braces layed out, you can see the biscuit slots.   The short (3") pieces are blocks to support the floor.

Closer pic of biscuit slots in brace and vertical.  

The top only needs to be 15" front to back and 3 1x6s are about 16-1/2", so I have marked the edge joined top to be cut off.  

Floor support blocks glued and clamped.  

Marking side frames for slides and position of back brace.   The back brace it the 1x6 front left on the bench.

Here I'm gluing the back brace on, the top is there to help keep things square.  

Now I'm gluing the top to the rest of the frame.  

The frame is face down, you can see the back brace on top, the smaller brace on the front is just for squaring up while gluing.  

Frame glued.  

I rounded the outside corners and cut rabbets for the panels.  

Here are the rabbets for a side panel.   Since the panels are rabbeted into the inside the inside is flush so the slides mount on a flat surface, and the outside has a recessed appearance.

Close up of inside rabbet, and corner floor support block.  

Frame on drill press base, where it'll end up.  

Panels cut our and rounded corners.   Note I had to notch out the floor support blocks so I could rabbet for the side panels.

Panels and floor.  

Ready to glue in side panel.  

Back and side panels glued in.  

Inside shot with panels and floor in place.   The floor will sit above the top of the drill press base, it mainly just keeps the frame square so the drawers will be happy.   The back brace really stands out here, I probably didn't need it with the other panels but this thing may get a lot of shoving.  

Note the panels are a little darker than the frame, wait till its painted, they should really contrast.  

Since I will be removing and replacing the storage unit ocasionally, I needed handles to lift it.   I marked a center line on an 8" length of 2x4 then drilled two 1-5/8" holes so the total distance is 4".   I drew lines from the outer edge of the holes.  

I cut the 2x4 in half along the center line for two handles.   Next, I'll cut the lines between the outside edges of the holes.

After I sawed the lines between the edges of the holes on each half, I rounded all the edges with a 1/2" roundover bit and, voilla, handles.

I screwed the handles to the top side of the storage frame.   We're looking at the top of the storage unit.

Handle on the other side.   The handles are screwed on with two 1-58" wallboard screws in each end, or 4 screws per handle.

Inside screws holding one end of a handle on.   Also note the lines where the guides will go, the little vertical mark is where the front of the slide goes (usually 1/2" from the front of the cabinet).

Because the storage unit will be movable, I needed some way to keep it in place while moving the whole drill press, so I drilled 4 1/2" holes in the bottom.  

And I glued 4 2" long oak pins, 1" into the base that match up with the holes in the storage unit.  

A little closer look at the pins on one side.  

Side of the storage unit with polyeurethane on it.   Note how dark the panel is in comparison with the pine frame.   Next up, more paint then make some drawers.

The cabinet sitting on it's alignment pins on the front of the drillpress base.  

Front view of storage cabinet on the DP base.   You can see the multi-bench in the background, thats where my bench top drillpress used to sit.   BTW: When I got the drill press only one of the lasers worked, so I called Jet and they sent me another whole collar with both lasers, now it works great.   Here is a link to the replacement for the multi-bench.

The drawers in the storage cabinet will be overlay type, that is, the fronts overlay the frame.   All sides, backs, and fronts cut to length.   The sides and backs start out as 1 by X and are resawed to end up with 5/16" thick sides and backs, the fronts will be 3/4".   The drawer frame sets are layed out in sets and the dovetail jig is set up.

All the bottom rabbets cut, and the front side rabbets cut.  

Drawer front and back, turned so you can see the bottom rabbets.   The back is exactly the same length as the boss on the drawer front.   The boss is the part that is left sticking up on the front after the side rabbets are cut.   Dovetails will be cut into each end of the boss to attach the drawer sides.

A front on the left, note it's bottom rabbet and side rabbet.   The side is on the right, you can see it's bottom rabbet.

The first three drawers, glued.   Note, I didn't use side clamps, just the ClampIts in the corner after I tapped the joints flush.

Last three drawers plus a remake for Bill's computer desk.  

This is an unclamped corner drying.   I tapped the side in with a mallet till the joint is flush and let the joint's friction hold it (I do keep checking while the glue sets).

Back corner unclamped.  

The big drawer, front right, is for Bill's computer table.   Next, I cut out the bottoms from the sheet of underlayment standing up at the back right.

Drawers with their bottoms glued in.  

Five of them lined up to have their fronts rounded over.  

Here is one after rounding it's front edges, these are surface drawers.  

Handles after drilling pilot holes for mounting.   For more info on how I make drawer handles, please see my page on drawer handles.

Handles installed, I'm painting the bottoms, sides and fronts.   The fronts will get several coats.

Finished with drawers installed.  

Overlay drawers in the drill press storage cabinet, left.   You can also see inset (or flush) drawers in the badsaw bench, on the right.

Closer view of how drawer front overlaps the frame.  

Larger drawers.  

Drawer open shwoing some forstner bits etc.  

In 2017 I needed to drill a hole in the end something long so I removed the storage.   All went well.

All 4 alignment pegs still there and ready.  

Close look at one of the pegs.   All went well.   When I put the storage chest back on the DP base I got Betty to align them for me.

Old multi-bench.  

Bench top drill press on the old Multi-Bench.