How Much Powder?

      There are a lot of different things that will improve the accuracy of your handloads.   Using "exactly" the right amount of powder is one of the more important things.   Before I decide how much powder to use, I always compare two or more reloading manuals to decide which bullet weight to use, and I notice what is considered to be the maximum load.   Keep in mind that each barrel is unique, and it will develop a different amount of chamber pressure compared to other rifles.

      I begin by taking my reloading equipment to the range, and I use a chronograph to measure the exact velocity of my handloads.   The first thing I do is assemble and fire a single round that is well below the maximum load.   I examine it for pressure signs, then I test other rounds one at a time.   Each round after that is loaded with .3 grain more powder.   After each firing, I examine the primer for signs of excessive pressure.   When the edge of the primer becomes completely flat, then it's time to stop increasing the load.   That indicates the maximum load for my particular rifle.

      At this point, I shoot the first (5) shot group with my maximum load.   I then make 5 more rounds and reduce the powder by .3 grains, and shoot another 5 shot group.   I repeat this process a few times while comparing the accuracy of several lighter loads.   Somewhere in this process, I'll find the velocity range that delivers the best accuracy with my particular rifle and bullet combination.   This method works for me.

      Don't jump to conclusions after shooting one great group.   Back it up by firing at least two more groups.   It's pretty rare for a shooter to just take a wild stab at how much powder to use and discover a great handload that shoots well in all rifles.   When you're sure that you've found the most accurate load, be sure to record that velocity.   When a good friend of mine Dwight Hall, is asked for accuracy tips, he'll always reply "Velocity, Velocity, Velocity . . . . you've got to find the exact speed that shoots best with your particular bullet - in your particular rifle."   Developing handloads with a chronograph is a definite advantage.   With this method you can test any another type of powder by handloading to duplicate this exact velocity.   You'll almost always shoot the tightest groups at (or very near) this speed.   After you decide on the best powder, you'll also need to experiment with different bullet seating depths, to see which setting delivers the best accuracy.

      Here are a few other thoughts on the subject.   A chronograph will show you how little the velocity is affected by a slight variation in powder charge.   After you've decided on a good load, there's rarely a need to weigh individual powder charges.   A good powder measure can drop consistent powder charges with most types of powder.   I reload for about a dozen different calibers, and I've only found one caliber that requires powder charges to be weighed for each and every round.   This caliber is the 300 Whisper.   Mine needs to have an extremely uniform velocity, because even the slightest variation in velocity will have a major effect on its trajectory.   This is because my 300 Whisper shoots a subsonic 220 grain bullet, and it has a scope that uses several 50 yard markings on the reticle.

      Back when I was shooting in snow country, I once discovered a surprising amount of unburned powder lying on the snow, in front of where I was shooting.   This shows that it's possible to burn too little of a slow burning powder, before you run out of barrel length.   It's also important to use magnum primers with the large calibers that require them.   Speaking about primers . . . . if your primer pockets loosen up, it almost always indicates that you're handloads are generating too much chamber pressure.   Try using a different powder or just back your load down a bit.